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Discovering Nyonya flavors

遇见娘惹风味

The Taste Atlas Cafe, situated on the edge classmates is a Nyonya. Every time I visited
of Green Lake in Kunming, features a Nyo- her home, I enjoyed amazing meals. Even-
nya indigo-style storefront, retro colorful tually, I learned to cook from her mother,”
patterned wall tiles, tropical greenery murals, Shen said.
and decorative lacquered wooden boxes. “Kunming is the hometown of Zheng
Upon entering, one feels as though they have He, and the rich story behind Nyonya fla-
stepped into a charming Chinese restaurant vors draws many locals. The city is home
reminiscent of Malacca or Penang, Malaysia. to a significant number of Southeast Asian
Nyonya nine-layer cakes, Nyonya stewed businessmen and international students who
chicken, Nyonya black barbecue pork, Ma- enjoy Nyonya cuisine for its Southeast Asian
lay fried kuey teow, curry laksa rice noodles, cooking style. In recent years, an increasing
coconut milk rice, Hainanese chicken, bak number of Kunming residents have traveled
kut teh/tea, and coconut-flavored orchid to Malaysia, where they have discovered and
cakes......These authentic Malaysian delica- fallen in love with Malay cuisine, including
cies are sure to excite diners’ palates. “Nyo- Nyonya dishes,” Shen said.
nya cuisine is a fusion of Chinese Cantonese Since 2020, the Malaysian Food Festival
and Fujian styles, along with Malaysian and has been held in Kunming for four consecu-
Indian influences,” said Chiu Kwok Leung, tive years, becoming an important platform
a Malaysian Chinese and owner of Taste for citizens to experience the unique flavors
Atlas Cafe. In Malaysia, the descendants of and culture of Southeast Asia. “Nyonya cui-
Chinese immigrants who arrived after Zheng sine symbolizes the long-standing exchanges
He’s voyages and intermarried with locals between China and Malaysia and exemplifies
are known as Peranakan or Baba Nyonya, the mutual understanding and integration of
with ‘Baba’ referring to males and ‘Nyonya’ different cultures,” said Ms. Li, a Kunming
to females.” resident, during the Malaysian Food Festival
Kunming’s food map now features a in April.
growing number of Southeast Asian restau- The beauty of food extends beyond just
rants. One such establishment is Shunxi Nan- pampering the palate. Nyonya flavors serve
yang Restaurant, located on Shulin Street, as a bridge between the people of China and
owned by Shen Gongru. A decade ago, Shen Malaysia, allowing diners to experience the
left Kunming to study hotel and restaurant harmonious interplay and mutual respect
management at Universiti Teknologi Ma- between these two vibrant cultures through a
laysia. “The mother of one of my Malaysian delightful culinary feast.