Page 20 - YunnanTourismCultureTimes (111)

19 FOOD | 好吃

Dali: Discovering history’s rhythm

大理：感受历史脉络

At 5 PM, the market at the Longwei Pass newlyweds, guided by their photographer,
intersection in Dali City, Dali Bai Autono- subtly adjust their poses, endeavoring to
mous Prefecture, bursts with life, reaching capture the profound weight of history
its most vibrant peak of the day. Freshly alongside the tender sweetness of their love
picked roses are piled into fragrant hills, in a single frame.
and tender green bok choy in bamboo bas- Longwei Pass has seen significant evolu-
kets still carries the earthy scent of the soil. tion in recent years; it now draws more vis-
“My homemade braised meat is perfectly itors and pulsates with increased vitality, all
seasoned and tastes best with rice!” shouted while holding onto its ancient street charm.
a vendor in an indigo apron, speaking in Luo Gang, 82, a lifelong resident, has dedi-
authentic Bai dialect, as she lifted the lid of cated years to preserving the ancient Long-
her pot. The rich aroma of braised meat im- wei Street. Though mobility issues led him
mediately permeated the air, mingling with to move from the street a few years ago, his
the char-grilled scent of roasted tofu from bond with Longwei Pass remains unbroken.
the street corner, compelling passersby to Regularly, he returns, cane in hand, to stroll,
frequently pause. greet neighbors, enjoy nostalgic meals, and
Beneath its unassuming facade, this veg- recount tales of the old street to visitors.
etable market is rapidly emerging as a pop- “Comprising one pass, two streets, and
ular spot for young people. “I never expect- sixteen alleys, Longwei Pass once stood
ed Dali’s most unique and well-preserved as Dali’s crucial defensive gateway,” Luo
street district to be here,” exclaimed a girl, Gang elaborated. “It flourished as a vibrant
camera poised, as she directed her lens nexus where merchants from all directions
towards Longwei Pass. She photographed traded goods and shared cultures.” Trailing
the mottled city walls, vendors with their Luo’s steps, visitors journey through the an-
bamboo baskets, and young people hauling cient streets, winding alleys, beside age-old
water buckets, vividly capturing the subtle, wells, and beneath the city gates, watching
vibrant pulse of daily life that seemed to Longwei Pass’s history spring to life. Luo
rise from the bluestone pavements. pointed out that most of Longwei Pass’s
Nestled on the north bank of the Xi’er historic residences, built from timber and
River within Dali City’s Guanyi Commu- earth or brick, remain remarkably intact in
nity, Taihe Sub-district, Longwei Pass is their traditional “three compounds and one
an ancient pass, built a millennium ago. It screen wall” or “quadrangle with five pati-
once stood as a vital defensive barrier dur- os” layouts. “Our efforts to protect Longwei
ing the Nanzhao Kingdom and a strategic Ancient Street involved renovating numer- might feel out of place in such a historic captivating essence lies in its harmonious
chokepoint on the Tea Horse Road. Today, ous old buildings,” Luo said, sweeping his setting,” Tang confessed. “But to my aston- convergence of nature, history, and every-
Longwei Pass offers a vibrant juxtaposi- hand towards the street’s bustling business- ishment, the neighbors not only accepted it day living. Her path to the well unfolds a
tion: seasonal fruits and vegetables spill es. “This preservation has, in turn, attracted but eagerly embraced my hand-brewed cof- series of vivid scenes: bustling vegetable
onto pavements beside hand-brewed coffee a wave of new enterprises.” fee.” This vibrant interplay of old and new markets, taverns overflowing with wisteria
shops, while traditional barber shops direct- Guided by Luo, our reporters rounded defines Longwei Pass: venerable houses are blooms, intricate handmade embroidery
ly face trendy teahouses across the street. Longwei Pass’s arched gateway, where Old reborn as artistic tea houses, and traditional stalls, and ancient mud walls telling histori-
This is where a thousand years of historical Tang’s Coffee Shop emerged, a rich aroma courtyards are transformed into inviting cal tales. These direct, tangible experiences
legacy beautifully intertwines with contem- instantly enveloping them. What was once guesthouses... Here, history and contem- make history not just visible, but profoundly
porary life, crafting a truly unique tapestry an old courtyard had been lovingly renovat- porary life meet, forging a truly distinctive comprehensible.
of local street scenes. ed and reborn as this inviting coffee haven. brilliance. As night descends and the last vegeta-
Ascending the bluestone path beyond the The owner, 51-year-old Tang, originally The allure of Longwei Pass’s transforma- ble stalls are cleared away, Longwei Pass
market, the rhythmic “whir” of old-fash- from Dalian, Liaoning, has made Dali his tion extends to its younger residents. Wang gradually settles into a profound quiet. This
ioned sewing machines emanates from tailor home for 11 years. As he meticulously Zhouzhou, 27, who moved to the area two thousand-year-old ancient pass serves as
shops tucked into the alleys. On the stone ground coffee beans, he said enthusiastical- years ago, makes a regular pilgrimage to the both a cherished repository of nostalgia for
steps at a corner, a Yi ethnic grandmother, ly, “Our shop boasts over 200 varieties of ancient well for water. “The daily spectacle “old Xiaguan” residents and a sought-after
dressed in traditional attire, meticulously coffee beans. Every single cup is carefully of people fetching water, riding bicycles or lifestyle for new Dali residents. As Luo put
embroiders shoe insoles, colorful threads brewed, reflecting our deep passion for both pulling small carts across Heilong Bridge, is it, “Longwei Pass is not a contrived tourist
weaving intricate patterns through her nim- coffee and life itself.” particularly vibrant and full of life,” Wang destination, but a place where genuine life
ble fingers. In front of the ancient city gate, “I was initially concerned a coffee shop observed. She added that Longwei Pass’s is lived.”