Page 22 - YunnanTourismCultureTimes (111)

21 FOOD | 好吃

Shangri-La: Embracing the poetic spirit of plateau living

香格里拉：品味高原生活诗意

Even before full dawn, the iron gates of culinary tip: “Shangri-La potatoes are firmer
Xiangyang Farmers’ Market in Shangri-La than those from Dali; to truly absorb the flavor
City, Diqing Zang Autonomous Prefecture, are when stewing them in soup, you have to break
already flung wide. Elderly Zang ladies, their them apart.”
backs laden with bamboo baskets, meticulously At the wild vegetable stall, an elderly Zang
arrange freshly made milk dregs on wooden woman named Gesang eagerly intercepts a
stalls. Lisu young men stride past purposeful- tourist about to leave. She patiently demon-
ly, shouldering gleaming black pottery jars. strates by snapping a piece of swamp cabbage:
Naxi vendors, their Mandarin bright with local “If you don’t pinch off the heart, it’ll be so bit-
accents, enthusiastically present prized morel ter you’ll jump!” Even though wild mountain
mushrooms and matsutake to curious tourists. vegetables, gathered when the snow first melts,
Within this bustling market, affectionately command a good price, she generously scoops
known to locals as “Golden Bridge,” a new two handfuls into the tourist’s basket, saying:
day’s narrative begins to unfold as the plateau’s “These are extra for you, welcome back next
nascent morning light pierces the ethereal mist time.” This warmth and generosity are a true
rising from the tin roof. reflection of the plateau people’s character.
In the Zang language, “Shangri-La” trans- “The lamb offal soup won’t be ready until
lates to “sun and moon in the heart.” This the afternoon; for now, we only have lamb’s
profound meaning is vividly reflected in the head meat,” explained the boss, known as
Xiangyang Farmers’ Market, a dynamic hub Fourth Brother, as he crouched by the coal
that mirrors both the rugged essence and gen- stove, stirring the embers with an iron hook.
erous spirit of plateau life. Far more than just a At the deep-fried snack stall, 65-year-old Zang
place for locals to acquire daily necessities, it lady Yangzom has been a steadfast presence
functions as a vibrant window into the region’s for 23 years. Eight coal stoves have come
rich ethnic cultures and daily routines. Here, and gone, witnessing her dedicated years, yet
people from various ethnic groups—Zang, the price of her cold jelly noodles remains
Naxi, Bai, and others—converge, their distinct unchanged at 5 yuan a serving—a tangible ex-
languages, colorful attire, and unique wares in- pression of her enduring goodwill toward her
tertwining to create a living, breathing tapestry loyal, long-time customers.
of cultural exchange. At the bustling butcher and medicinal
In the bustling vegetable section, the spir- herb stalls, the interactions between buyers
ited cries of an elderly Bai woman resonate and sellers brim with wisdom and humor. To
clearly: “Dali greens, 3 yuan! No bargaining!” demonstrate the quality of his yak meat, stall
When a tourist inquires, she confidently grasps owner Losang flips open a tent flap, revealing
a handful of fresh greens, urging, “Smell this the intricate marbling. Nearby, medicinal herb
earthy freshness! They just came from Erhai vendor Azhimu snaps open a fritillary bulb,
Lake this morning.” At a market perched at an its bitter cross-section swiftly dispelling any
altitude of 3300 meters, most vegetables are tourist’s doubts. These daily exchanges are far
transported long distances, making potatoes more than mere commerce; they are a vibrant
one of the few true “local produce.” Vegetable conduit for culture and trust.
vendor Wang Jianjun chuckles as he shares a