Page 21 - YunnanTourismCultureTimes (115)

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FOOD | 好吃

“Grassroots Hero” of the streets

市井诞生的“草根英雄”

In its origins, Small-Pot Rice Noodles is truly a “grass- greens, and sections of leeks, all cooked swiftly over
roots hero.” More than a century ago, following the opening high heat and served right away. “One pot, one flavor”
of the Yunnan‑Vietnam Railway and the flourishing of the defined the distinct ritual of Small‑Pot Rice Noodles.
horse-caravan trade, Kunming grew into a major transpor- Over time, Small-Pot Rice Noodles did more than
tation hub in Yunnan. Merchants from near and far gathered satisfy the hungry; they wove themselves into Kun-
here, and the city’s population surged. Resourceful crafts- ming’s living memory. During the War of Resistance
men from Yuxi, seeking livelihood, keenly recognized the Against Japanese Aggression, Kunming served as a
demand for convenient street food. Carrying their wares on crucial rear-area hub, drawing in teachers and students
shoulder poles, with a small copper pot over charcoal on of the National Southwestern Associated Universi-
one end and bowls, chopsticks, and condiments clinking on ty, factory workers transferred inland, and waves of
the other, they began weaving through the city’s lanes, of- displaced people. Amid soaring prices and hardship, a
fering a hot, portable meal to the bustling crowds. steaming, affordable, and flavorful bowl of rice noodles
When customers approached, the vendor would grab a became a warm comfort through cold nights. In his essays
small copper pot, an emblem of Yunnan’s fine metalcraft, “Kunming Fare” and “Rice Noodles,” the celebrated food
prized for its quick, even heating. A scoop of water went into writer Wang Zengqi captured the very soul of Small-Pot
the pot over the fire, followed by fresh minced meat, pickled Rice Noodles in evocative, enduring prose.

A symphony of five tastes in a seething broth

猛火滚汤中的“五味交锋”

The bold character of Small-Pot Rice Noodles is clear Into this symphony of five flavors, thick rice noodles move almost of their own accord, lifting rhythmical-
from the very first simmer. In a palm‑sized copper pot, in- make their entrance. Sturdy and resilient, they stand up to ly, unable to pause—a complete and willing surren-
gredients yield their soul under the fierce dance of flame. the rolling, richly seasoned broth, cling to the hearty sauce, der to its spell.
As the broth bubbles like a spring, freshly minced pork, and reward every bite with a deeply satisfying chew. Compared to Yunnan’s other signature dish,
from the morning’s supply, is the first to hit the pot, searing Finally, pea shoots, leeks, and tofu skin are added to the Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles, Small-Pot Rice
quickly to lock in its tenderness. Next, a handful of fully pot, while chili oil swirls in red waves. The entire process Noodles is far more rustic and direct. While Cross-
fermented southern Yunnan pickled mustard greens joins flows seamlessly, completed in one go. ing-the-Bridge delights with “broth clear as water,
in, its bright tang cutting through the richness. Soon, the Take that first bite, and the scalding-hot broth, sour, oil bright as a mirror” and an elaborate presentation
mellow depth of Zhaotong bean paste and the savory depth spicy, fresh, salty, and fragrant, rushes into your mouth, of dozens of delicate accompaniments, Small-Pot’s
of Tuodong soy sauce dissolve into the simmering liquid, tingling the tongue and drawing quick, hot breaths. Yet strength lies in its bold, immediate “sour, spicy,
sizzling together into an aroma that is utterly irresistible. as the flavors swirl and bloom on the palate, chopsticks fresh, and steaming-hot” impact.

The city’s steady pulse, day and night

贯穿日夜的城市脉搏

By 7 a.m., lines already stretch outside small-pot rice plastic stools, faces lowered over large bowls as they slurp is the century-old copper pot—and the soul of a meal
noodle shops along Kunming’s streets. Office workers, with focused urgency. The primal satisfaction of carbs, cooked swiftly over a roaring flame.
students, and seniors back from morning exercises crane paired with the sharp kick of sour and spicy flavors, sweeps No refinement needed, only hearty satisfaction; no
their necks, eyes fixed on the copper pots sizzling over the away midday weariness in moments. elegance required, just piping-hot warmth. Small-Pot
flames. The shop owner works deftly with two pots at once, At 2 a.m. in Kunming’s backstreets, copper pots still Rice Noodles, with its handful of honest ingredients,
and the rising aroma immediately shakes off the last traces bubble quietly over gas burners. Taxi drivers rubbing tired simmers into the most authentic taste of Yunnan.
of sleep. wrists and medical workers just off shift gather around low
After devouring a bowl of Small-Pot Rice Noodles, your tables. A bowl of Small-Pot Rice Noodles, downed in ear-
forehead glistens, your body feels awakened, and the day nest, and fatigue seems to dissolve into the night air.
begins, hot, spicy, and full of life. From dawn’s first light to the glimmer of night stars,
At lunch, it becomes the undisputed star. In crowded from humble street stalls to emerging food streets,
basement shops below office towers, suited white-collar Small-Pot Rice Noodles beats like the city’s steady pulse.
workers and sweat-stained laborers perch side by side on Charcoal fires have yielded to gas stoves, yet what endures