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14         FOOD      |   好吃






                 An illustrated guide to edible wild
                                                                                                         Chanterelles
                           mushrooms in Yunnan
                                                                                                         鸡油菌




                                                                                                               Chanterelles, literally chicken fat mushrooms,
                                                                                                            are known as one of the world’s four most delicious
                                                                                                             mushroom varieties. They can become really
                                                                                                               greasy when fried in oil. When you chew them,
                                                                                                               the oil inside them will be squeezed out, making
                                                                                                                them taste like fat chicken. Unlike any other food,
                                                                                                                 chanterelles smell of apricot, which is very special.
                                                                                                                 Mature chanterelles are shaped like morning
                                                                                                        glories. They are brightly colored. Compared with other
                                                                                                        mushrooms, they taste jiggly and give a chewing pleasure.


                                                                                                        Virscent russules

                                                                                                        青头菌




                                                                                                          Virscent russules have greenish caps, which makes
                                                                                                            people think that they are poisonous. In fact, they
                                                                                                             are completely edible and taste delicious and
                                                                                                             aromatic when cooked. To avoid spoiling their
                                                                                                             nutrients, chefs usually stir-fry, stew, braise, or
                                                                                                             marinate them. They are a real delicacy when
                                                                                                              cooked properly.
                                                                                                                 Based on the local ways of cooking virscent
                                                                                                               russules, modern chefs have developed braised
                                                                                                              virscent russules with Yunnan-style ham in
                                                                                                              chicken soup, which tastes particularly refreshing.
                                                                                                            You need to stew a mature hen for several hours
                                                                                                        to obtain a perfect chicken broth. Then you braise the
                                                                                                        virscent russules in the chicken broth together with
                                                                                                        Yunnan-style ham and wrinkled hot peppers.
                                                                                                          The virscent russules braised in this way feature a tender
                                                                                                        texture. They taste like stewed meat but are more richly
                                                                                                        flavored. The savory ham, juicy chicken, and braised
                                                                                                        virscent russules complement each other very well. The
                                                                                                        rich broth tastes as if it has been thickened with starch.
                                                                                                        This dish is the best when served with a bowl of rice.


                                                                                                         Matsutake mushrooms

                                                                                                            松茸



        Text by staff correspondents  □ 本刊综合                                                                     Referred to as the uncrowned king of all
                                                                                                              mushrooms, matsutake mushrooms are certainly
            In May and June every year, the                                                                   the most coveted by foodies. As they grow,
        monsoons from the Pacific and                                                                        matsutake mushrooms will exchange active
        the Indian Ocean will bring rains                                                                 substances with the trees around them. This is a mysterious
        to Yunnan. With the abundant                                                                     process still baffling human beings, so matsutake
        precipitation, wild mushrooms will                                                                  mushrooms still cannot be artificially cultivated. For
        spring up in large numbers in the tall                                                               this reason, they are rare and cost dearly.
        mountains and deep valleys. These                                                                       Unopened matsutake mushrooms feature a
        mushrooms have different names                                                                       rich flavor and a fine texture. When fried, they
        and are cooked in different ways. The                                                                taste tender and jiggly. When you teeth bite
        edible mushrooms are real goodies,                                                                  into them, you can feel the delicate texture, and a
        but you still need to beware of those                                                            special aroma will greet your nostrils. Once you get
        poisonous ones.                                                                                 to know the taste of matsutake mushrooms, their charm
                                                                                                        will be undeletable and linger forever.
            每年五六月,太平洋季风和印度洋季风                                                                             Matsutake mushrooms taste the purest when eaten raw.
                                                                                                        As with sashimi, you just need to wash and slice them.
        把雨水带到云南。充沛的降水让山高谷深、
                                                                                                        Then they are ready to serve with salt, mustard, and chili
        土地丰饶的云南成为野生菌的天堂。各式各
                                                                                                        sauce depending on your preference. Free from an earthy
        样的可食用野生菌有着不同的名字和烹饪方                                                                             smell, they give out a faint smell of pine and licorice, with

        法。                                                                                              a subtle sweetness that comes from nature itself.
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