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14 FOOD | 好吃
An illustrated guide to edible wild
Chanterelles
mushrooms in Yunnan
鸡油菌
Chanterelles, literally chicken fat mushrooms,
are known as one of the world’s four most delicious
mushroom varieties. They can become really
greasy when fried in oil. When you chew them,
the oil inside them will be squeezed out, making
them taste like fat chicken. Unlike any other food,
chanterelles smell of apricot, which is very special.
Mature chanterelles are shaped like morning
glories. They are brightly colored. Compared with other
mushrooms, they taste jiggly and give a chewing pleasure.
Virscent russules
青头菌
Virscent russules have greenish caps, which makes
people think that they are poisonous. In fact, they
are completely edible and taste delicious and
aromatic when cooked. To avoid spoiling their
nutrients, chefs usually stir-fry, stew, braise, or
marinate them. They are a real delicacy when
cooked properly.
Based on the local ways of cooking virscent
russules, modern chefs have developed braised
virscent russules with Yunnan-style ham in
chicken soup, which tastes particularly refreshing.
You need to stew a mature hen for several hours
to obtain a perfect chicken broth. Then you braise the
virscent russules in the chicken broth together with
Yunnan-style ham and wrinkled hot peppers.
The virscent russules braised in this way feature a tender
texture. They taste like stewed meat but are more richly
flavored. The savory ham, juicy chicken, and braised
virscent russules complement each other very well. The
rich broth tastes as if it has been thickened with starch.
This dish is the best when served with a bowl of rice.
Matsutake mushrooms
松茸
Text by staff correspondents □ 本刊综合 Referred to as the uncrowned king of all
mushrooms, matsutake mushrooms are certainly
In May and June every year, the the most coveted by foodies. As they grow,
monsoons from the Pacific and matsutake mushrooms will exchange active
the Indian Ocean will bring rains substances with the trees around them. This is a mysterious
to Yunnan. With the abundant process still baffling human beings, so matsutake
precipitation, wild mushrooms will mushrooms still cannot be artificially cultivated. For
spring up in large numbers in the tall this reason, they are rare and cost dearly.
mountains and deep valleys. These Unopened matsutake mushrooms feature a
mushrooms have different names rich flavor and a fine texture. When fried, they
and are cooked in different ways. The taste tender and jiggly. When you teeth bite
edible mushrooms are real goodies, into them, you can feel the delicate texture, and a
but you still need to beware of those special aroma will greet your nostrils. Once you get
poisonous ones. to know the taste of matsutake mushrooms, their charm
will be undeletable and linger forever.
每年五六月,太平洋季风和印度洋季风 Matsutake mushrooms taste the purest when eaten raw.
As with sashimi, you just need to wash and slice them.
把雨水带到云南。充沛的降水让山高谷深、
Then they are ready to serve with salt, mustard, and chili
土地丰饶的云南成为野生菌的天堂。各式各
sauce depending on your preference. Free from an earthy
样的可食用野生菌有着不同的名字和烹饪方 smell, they give out a faint smell of pine and licorice, with
法。 a subtle sweetness that comes from nature itself.